Last week I went on an awesome trip through Swedish and Finish Lapland. It is easy to say that this was one of the best trips of my life. Together with two Chinese students I visited Santa Claus’ home at the border of the Arctic Circle in Rovaniemi, Finland, the Ice Hotel near Kiruna, and the wonderful nature of the Abisko national park.
In the evening of the 1st of January 2010 we started our 500 km journey to Rovaniemi using a rented car. After we left a major snow storm behind us we had a nice and easy ride through the Scandinavian winter and arrived in Rovaniemi at about 4 am. We rested in the car for some hours and got up again quite early to buy some warm tee and warm up at a gas station. Even though it did help to rest for some hours, I can’t advise anyone to sleep in a car at -26° C unless you have perfect cloth which we obviously didn’t have. At about 10 am we arrived at the Santa Claus village outside of Rovaniemi. Santa’s home turned out to be a bunch of houses designed to attract children and impoverish parents; what a surprise! Luckily I’m neither so I managed to visit the different attractions without spending an unreasonable amount of money. While I successfully ignored attractions like “meet Santa and pay 25€ for one photo with him” I enjoyed my time at Santa’s post office and the museum. Apparently he gets about 32000 letters per day at Christmas time. They are sorted by language and then given an automated reply. From this office, where the staff is female, mostly blond and wears a funny red elf-hat you can also send Christmas cards to your family. The postcards get a Santa postmark and can be chosen to arrive either in the next couple of days or just in time for the upcoming Christmas 2010. I liked that idea and send one to my little sister. In the museum you could find several rooms explaining the history of Santa Claus with all his different names and looks. Together with the image of Santa the decoration, habits and probably the idea of Christmas vary from country to country. For next Christmas I’m thinking about writing the big red guy a postcard suggesting to switch to GNU/Linux (picture 2).


After a short walk in the city centre of Rovaniemi we started our journey to Kiruna. 340 km later we arrived in the centre of a small city covered in at least 30 cm of snow. Being located on a hillside with a church on top Kiruna isn’t a place to get lost. Still, to get to our home for the next two nights we were happy to find some locals. We asked two seniors for the local vandrarhem (youth hostel) and ended up with them sitting in the back of the car discussing where to go. While we first talked to them in English they had their discussion in Swedish and were apparently very happy about me understanding them and trying to talk to them in their mother tongue. With these two women on board we found our way in no time and were once again astonished by the helpfulness of Swedish people. In the same evening we gave back the rented car and enjoyed a short walk through the city.
The next morning started at 9 am. A small bus picked us up and took us to a cabin next to a frozen lake. A very committed and pleasant man, who turned out to be the boss of the small company organizing this day trip, distributed proper cloth and introduced us to our means of transportation for our trip to the Ice Hotel. In groups of two (luckily we were an odd number of people and I happened to be the only one without a partner and this way got drove all the way instead of “only” half of it) we used snow mobiles to drive over frozen lakes, hills and through woods. We enjoyed an unbelievably beautiful winter scenery and arrived at the Ice Hotel at 11:30 am. The Ice Hotel is a huge building entirely made of snow and ice. Well, snow and a mixture of snow and ice they call “snice”. For the twentieth time now a different version of this hotel has been build every year. Inside, every room is unique. People from all around the world send in sketches and the year’s best are build. Every room has its own idea, its own shape and lightening. Walking through a building entirely made of snow and ice is absolutely fascinating. Everything seems volatile and yet surprisingly stable. Next to the Ice Hotel they even built a church which appears to be one of Sweden’s most popular locations for weddings. At 2pm we started the snow mobiles again and went back. This time our guide allowed us to drive a little faster. I ended up driving 100 km/h and had a big smile on my face. I now agree with someone I met in Umeå who told me that driving a snow mobile is one of the best things you can do in your life
Having arrived at the cabin next to the frozen lake again, we sat down around a small fire and enjoyed our lunch. We had reindeer meat, potatoes, lingonberries and tee. It was the perfect ending to an unforgettable trip. If you should ever get the chance to go to Kiruna and see the Ice Hotel, do it. If you have enough time for a day trip you will never forget, book it here.



At 9:31 am on the 4th of January we took the train to Abisko. Abisko is a tiny village 100 km from Kiruna. We were told it had only 84 inhabitants. Considering the number of houses we saw, that could actually be true. Abisko is well-known all over Sweden. It is famous for its national park with mountains, a huge lake, small rivers and a lot of small ways to hike, do cross-country skiing, climbing and many other things. After we arrived and found the local supermarket our little group split up for the rest of our time in Abisko and everyone ended up in a new group. For me the day went on with a small hiking tour through the woods together with a Chinese guy I had met in Kiruna and now run into again. We walked past (and of course across
) a frozen river and just some way through the woods that seemed convenient. Soon it got dark and we were very happy to have a flash light. A little cold but fascinated and happy we returned to the local vandrarhem at 4:30 pm. Back there I shared a room with five exchange students from Malmö. Luckily we got along pretty well and had a great time together. Actually, I can hardly remember a time I laughed that much in two days!
The day ended with a Swedish sauna. The landlord asked us – a group of nine people – to only bring soap and handed us towels to sit on. While we all were surprised to bring soap into the sauna, we were soon given an explanation. Our landlord told us about his philosophy of saving water and preventing the body from sweating during the day by having your shower in the evening in the sauna. Enjoying this way of warming up again after a cold day, I decided to repeat this procedure at the end of the next day.
The 5th of January was the unquestionable highlight of my Lapland tour. At 9 am a group of 17 people met outside the hostel and walked to the nearby dog camp. We prepared ten one-person sleighs and 40 dogs to create a time worth remembering. With – who might have guessed – four dogs per sledge we went on a two hours tour through the mountain area. Assisting the dogs when going uphill and trying not fall of the sledge when going downhill or doing turns we were quite exhausted after a couple of minutes. After every quarter of the way we exchanged our sledges for a place on a snow mobile’s trailer that has been taking the other half of the group for a fun ride. After these two hours all of us were thrilled about this trip. One of my room mates called this dog sledging tour one of the best things he has ever done in his life. I’m willing to agree with him. Driving fast on a snow mobile was a lot of fun, but actually doing some work yourself, together with the joy of working with living creatures – with 40 dogs (!) – is something I will never forget. But still, the day wasn’t over yet!
After a short break, a cross-country skiing tour and the obligatory two sauna hours, we went on another very special trip. At about 10 pm we walked down to the lake and kept starring at the sky. Our position so far up north, the cold and clear air offered us the opportunity of seeing one of nature’s finest spectacles: the northern lights. Since I came to Sweden in August, I always hoped to see the northern lights. It was the 5th of January that I finally saw them and it was worth waiting! I was lucky enough to find people who spent hundreds of euros for a camera to get the perfect shot. Because it was them who put all that money and effort into getting these amazing pictures I am of course not going to publish them. Anyway, thanks a lot guys. I am very happy to have them in my private photo album


On the 6th we went on our way back home. It took us almost 11 hours to get back to Umeå by train. For me that was a time to think about this amazing tour through Swedish and Finish Lapland. In my mind I relived the whole tour again: the Christmas post card, snow mobile driving, the Ice Hotel, dog sledging, the northern lights and a great time I had with people from all over the world. Now, there’s only one major tour left on my “to do in Sweden” list: visiting Stockholm.
Tags: Abisko, dog sledging, Ice Hotel, Kiruna, Rovaniemi, Santa Claus, snow mobile, Umeå